CC-Villas
News & Impressions from Italy
08.02.08


New approach – it’s going to get tricky in Italy

As reported new elections are coming up in Italy, dates most probably in April 2008. As reported also, Veltroni, now mayor of Rome, will be the most prominent opponent for Berlusconi.
What is new, however, is the fact that Veltroni promotes a line where he alone would try and defeat the entire right wing coalition of Berlusconi, in other words: all the left wing parties would be united under his guidance and name. Revolutionary for Italy, actually he (Veltroni) would make a change to Italian election rules without changing the law in respect. For Berlusconi this would create a really difficult starting position as the Italian voter that might have voted in favour of one of the many left wing parties in the past would now go for Veltroni thus pushing him into a very promising position. For the time being the smaller left wing parties seem to agree with that kind of tricky procedure; it remains an open question, however, how they will act ant react once we come to that point. Assumed Veltroni would win the elections by means of this (almost genius) coup, where would all the many “leaders” of small left wing parties find themselves (with all their incredible privileges) in a government Veltroni alone would have the power to put together.
The same applies to the right wing parties who up to now do not show any intention to “just fly united under the flag” of Berlusconi, as in the end they would be in a similar position. All in all we have here a new example of the ingenuity of this country; it’s going to remain – or better: to become increasingly exciting…………….

05.02.08

No surprise, actually.......


As expected new elections will take place in Italy soon. The Senate’s president’s attempt to come to an agreement on changing the truly overcomplicated election rules first was doomed to fail. Of course, this would have been the logical way out of the stall-mate situation, but the actual opposition insist on early new elections as they see a good chance of winning them. The true leader of the still governing parties, Rome’s mayor Veltroni, has been favouring the anticipated change of election rules, but certainly not fully convinced as he himself might see good chances to become the leader of a new centre-left coalition.
That leads us to the core of the problem: none of the two sides should really expect an overwhelming success in upcoming elections. Berlusconi and his group are strong, Berlusconi as a person, however, continues to be much “discussed” (to say the least). And with the person of Veltroni there is now an option at hands that has to be considered much more seriously than anyone else in the still governing parties, at mid-term as well as at longer-term perspectives.
Now, what does all than mean for people interested in Italy as such or in spending holidays in this country? Actually nothing truly important. After a short and probably sharp election campaign there will be a new government. Either Berlusconi’s well known coalition (should this term be applicable for Italy) with all its pros and cons, or a centre-left coalition under the leadership of Veltroni who is considered a man of high reliability, prestige, sane guidance for home and foreign politics.
Remains the (remote) hope an election would have a clear-cut outcome resulting in a new government that has a chance to survive a full legislation period and tackle the actual problems of this country.

30.01.08


And again „vox populi“........

One more time Italy finds herself in a political crisis, expected to happen much earlier by the insiders.
No doubt, the different sides fight each other about the question who is right, who should run the country in future. There is, however, almost full unanimity in the assessment that an interim government would not be able/willing to come up with the urgently needed new law on the election system in short time; in fact the months Prodi’s group has been governing the country have not been sufficient to do so.
And what does the “ordinary man on the street” think about all that chaos? Here is one example from a gentleman known to me who reads several newspapers every day: “I do not believe a word of what they are saying, I just go through the cinema programme, that’s something I can rely on”
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Clever – but only to a certain point.....


As we all know, tourists and Italians use to throw coins into famous Fontana di Trevi at Rome – the saying is, who does so will certainly return safely to Rome. Some time ago the commune has taken over to collect the coins from the fountain which for many years had been a privilege for youngsters.
Now, yesterday at bright daylight two young men from the clan of Roma or Sinti have been arrested at the fountain. With special recovering tools they had already fished coins of an amount of roughly 800 Euro profiting from a short absence of security personnel. Eyewitnesses had alerted the police and both were arrested after a short persecution by the carabinieri, money and fishing instruments were confiscated. As both young men were adults (what a surprise, in most cases they abuse kids for that kind of action) they will have to face prosecution and trial…….


Your city cares for you

There are many bad stories about Rome, most of which circulated by non-Romans, some more than justified, but certainly not all. If we put aside the extreme noise level and traffic situation Rome continues to be one of the most charming and well liveable cities in the world. A particular action planned for this summer offers another evidence for this judgement:
During the period of mid July until the end of August supermarkets and some other major shops will deliver at home without additional cost to people over 70 years of age who are ill or physically handicapped.
The action runs under the motto “Nonna Roma – città per la 3a età” – Grandmother Rome, city for the 3rd part of life.

Should be looked at as an excellent example, particularly so for other cities that claim to have “a loving heart” for their citizens.


Vox populi

Rome has seen a lot of heavy rainfalls over the last few days, particularly the Centro Storico is flooded as the old pebble stone roads urgently need repair. An old lady (?) stands amidst one of these little lakes and shouts: “Here I stand in the middle of this bloody lake, and this great ...hole of mayor is sitting up there on the Capitol and certainly does not have wet feet”



Just great!


The Italian press agency informs:

A waitress from a place in Northern Italy has charged a solicitor, half of the local football team and a few commune employees as she wants to find out who is the father of the child she is expecting………..



Management by surprise


Friday afternoon, rush hour, on a bus in Rome. Absolutely packed, everybody in a hurry, some of which truly so, others just because it so nicely “adds to their importance”.
Now as a surprise this bus is deviated, for one of the too many and absolutely useless demonstrations Piazza Venezia, one of the most critical junctions in the city, had been closed for traffic. Of course this deviation has not been announced by any word, the bus driver does not offer any kind of explanation, we all travel in a completely wrong direction all of a sudden.
Angry mumbling an grumbling first, climaxing in loud and hectic atmosphere in just a few seconds. “I actually should have got out right here”, “I must pick up the kids from school and will miss them now”, “I’m going to miss a deal worth some millions”, “my wife will not believe a word if I’m late again” etc.
Thereafter people continue to be upset and frustrated, but the discussions go in two main directions: 1. What are all these damned demonstrations good for, we poor people see no benefit in them (supporters of Berlusconi and Prodi start fighting each other) , and 2. does a person with severe arthritis have a right for a seat in the bus in that circumstance, particularly in case of unexpected deviations (“I’m suffering from heavy arthritis, would you like to see my knees” an elderly fat lady is heard to say).
Coming back on the deviated tour to Piazza Venezia some 20 minutes later we detected the demonstration had ended long ago and the street would have been open for the bus. So, in the end, we did not have to inspect the overfed lady’s knees, and the man who might have lost a millions’ bargain got to his shop in time to bid for the weekend lottery.
And back home they all had something to tell the rest of their families...



Difficulties with language and its consequences...


A friend of ours has been stolen her laptop some time ago. She reported to the local police at her small Italian village and a protocol was made.
She declared the laptop had been stolen while she was working with it. Obviously the term “laptop” was unknown to the policeman which resulted in a report saying her “letto” (i.e. the bed) was stolen while she was working on it...



Roman Summer ...


Although much too early: it is truly hot summer in Rome. The restaurants, inns and pizzerie enlarge like a patch of oil, in one way or the other they all manage to find space outdoors. The regulations say tables and chairs must not be more than 1 m 30 distant from the house wall, but by some miracle these 130 cm double once it gets dark………
This is, of course , also the case at a pizzeria we use to frequent regularly. Now today there has been a kind of surprise: Despite the fact (or just because of it ?) there is this pizzeria in front of the palazzo the owners/tenants of the upper floors have watered their flowers at 21.00 already, and obviously in a somewhat exaggerated manner as at some tables people got flooded, water dribbling down into their soup or any other dish. Great agitation, strong words from the owner of the restaurant and some of the guests – thereafter people just continued to have their meal as if nothing had happened.

Come sei bella, Roma, anche con tutti i tuoi difetti e l’inevitabile menefreghismo – How beautiful Rome is, despite of all its weak spots and its fairly well known “mind your own business mentality”



How very human...


Rome, St.Peter’s Square, noon time. Two priests in soutane cross the square, obviously heavily arguing with one another, as the expressive body language showed both Italians. The discussions gets hotter, the gesticulations even more accentuated, their voices louder. At the end – they clearly could not come to an agreement – one leaves his companion with a move known in Italy as “vaffa”, in plain English: “…..yourself”!



Compliments, didn’t expect that


Because of a serious ankle problem my wife had to rely on the airport wheel chair services after a flight from Germany to Rome. She was taken care of by an ordinary airport employee of some 40 years of age. While waiting for luggage delivery a discussion was initiated in which this man, unexpectedly as I must say, showed deep knowledge of history, the battle at Teutoburg where the Romans were fought down by the Cheruskers, through the Roman republics and imperial periods, complex family connections at the time of Cesar. Also with regard to a film “ROMA” that was shown on Italian TV recently he came up with very solid, valid and thoughtful observations. My respect and compliments, I truly would not have expected that from a man in his position!



Under preservation order...


The thermal water cascades at Saturnia as well as the little theatre at Vetronia have been put under preservation order these days. This means that their maintenance will be supported with state finances, very much so in favour of all visitors and tourists.



That was that...


The Court of Appeal has published its final decision on the latest elections today. After checking the votes in doubt the left coalition has even won an additional small margin against Berlusconi and his allies, the roughly 40.000 votes of that single district have been declared valid. There will most certainly some further grumbling from the right wing parties, the decision, however, seems to be final.
By that the left wing coalition has been confirmed, as well in Parliament as in the Senate.
It might have been easier for the left wing to win the elections than it might be to govern this country which is deeply split. It will be most interesting how the left coalition will run the country – and for how long, given the fact their heterogeneity will soon start to become obvious.

Good luck, Italy !



Just an update...


As of now the verdict of the Roman Court of Appeal is to be expected for Thursday next.
On the one hand it has to come to a conclusion with regard to votes that have been assessed a spoiled ballet-paper in the first round.
The other issue the court has to assess, however, is of much higher importance as they have to decide what should happen/have happened to 40.000 votes in favour of a political party that had been eligible just in one province (kind of administrative district) of Italy. They all had been attributed to the left parties; now the right wing pretends there is a law which says they should not have been attributed to either side. This question as well has to be dealt with by the court of appeal.
In case the right parties’ opinion should prevail the left side would simply loose 40.000 votes which automatically would overthrow the outcome of the elections with Berlusconi being the winner. Should the court come to another decision a long and painful litigation could follow as the right wing would most certainly not just give in as long as any verdict would not have achieved legal capacity.

Interesting times !




What a tough race, these people from Tuscany...

An 81 years old lady from Viareggio has created a real traffic chaos these days in her home-town. First she had caused a major traffic accident, thereafter performed as a first class hit-and-run driver, knocked down a motorcyclist, disregarded the police signs to stop immediately, speeding away in reverse gear this time. When she was blocked in the end by the police she refused to show her documents.

Final result: she was arrested, the car was safe- kept, loss of driver’s leicense.



Elections in Italy, or the „Never Ending Story”


In a mood of high tension Italy expects the final (?) verdict on the results of the latest Italian elections. It seems highly probable the coalition of left parties in the end will prevail, most certainly so in Parliament, in the senate it might be very tight. And an Italian government that does not enjoy majority in both chambers will be in trouble – the lack of homogeneity in the left coalition being one more reason for major concern.
The very critical comments from abroad, increasingly so also in Italy itself, are directed towards the “stubborn” position of Berlusconi who is unwilling to accept the results as of now. The terms reach from intransigence, loss of sense of reality and ridiculousness down to much worse terms from the political and media vocabulary.
No doubt, there may be different views with regard to Berlusconi’s desperate attempts to stay in power. There is, however, one fact one has to face if one would not all of a sudden paint a saintly picture of the political and media world: The Italian left parties would undoubtedly follow exactly the same line in case they would perceive this as last chance to win an election that seems to be lost. Who thinks this was a typical Italian phenomenon suffers from self-deception. Let me remind the last elections in the United States of America. And: would Schröder have left office had there been just a remote possibility to stay in power?
Where (political) power is at stake elegant attitudes, fairness and noble-mindedness do not have a place any more, if that was ever the case. Times have changed and we (in Italy as elsewhere) have changed as well.



Kids to the front...

While the battle for “who has won the elections” continues in an ever more strange way, life goes on in Italy.
The Carabinieri just arrested an adult person and 4 kids in a Roman bus who exercised advanced in place training for a new job. The adult trained the kids how to pick-pocket passengers and get away with it. They were caught in the act, the adult went into prison and awaits trial, the kids had to be set free immediately. In case their training had already reached advanced status they will easily and fast get the money needed for a first class lawyer to handle the adult’s case in court.
Let me remind you of the fact, that a “lady”, master in pick-pocketing, had been interviewed some two years ago stating that on a “good day” she would easily make some 700 $ “income”, tax free of course.




Actually no plan, but everything perfectly clear………Italy, day 3 after elections

As one could have expected: a real “mess”, everybody fights everybody, one group of parties are celebrating, the other side are looking for a miracle to happen.
Of course one could understand the former opposition to celebrate victory and make plans for the immediate future; on the other side one cannot deny the former government parties to try and throw light into the grey areas which do exist given the very close results of the elections. In fact, it is just a few tens of thousands of votes that miss for retaining majority in parliament, in the senate things are ever closer. The idea to investigate has found new justification as a few boxes with obviously regular votes have been found in the garbage.

A situation like in old Rome…..

Whatever will happen, a few facts can be stated right now:
  1. It will take months until a new government will be in power and work can begin. Only after the election of a new State’s president, scheduled for 13 May, order for the emplacement of a new government can be given. This won’t be all too easy as there as well majorities play a role. It will be difficult in any case to find a good successor to a great president as Ciampi has been.
  2. Who ever might lead a new government, it will be a most difficult task; this country has suffered a further and deep division during the last election campaign, the ongoing discussions and fights will not help in this regard.
  3. Each day with new clashes will further diminish the remote chances for a great coalition. Italians, pragmatic as they can be in other circumstances, are more than hard to convince in that direction, despite the fact this might be a way to come to grips with the problems of today and to-morrow. I have my doubts whether Berlusconi’s “offer/invitation” in favour of a great coalition was truly serious or just another way to gain time. As summary: this solution is just a fiction and most probably has zero chances to be put in place.
  4. Most important issues will remain unsolved for the time being, thereafter their implementation will be extremely difficult, particularly so should the right wing parties achieve a minimum majority in the senate in the end.
  5. In an attempt to look at things in an objective way new elections might not be the worst solution as now each Italian citizen would know that each and every vote counts. Chances for that, however, are close to zero as well.
Results for the time being: Everything is crystal clear, no-one has the foggiest idea about anything, nobody knows where to head for, but they all start “marching”. Spring sun shines brightly over the country, the people are as gentle as they were before the elections, the country will, in one way or the other, overcome.

In the meantime other countries’ media will closely follow events and certainly not fail in making a mock of Italy and offering well meant suggestions. This, too, will not change.




Splendid idea

Electronic boards over Italian motorways, like in many other countries, offer information on traffic, road and weather situation or any other recommendation and reminder.
Just some kilometres front of some service station/restaurant a new sign is becoming popular these days: “Free coffee from midnight until 05.00 o’clock”.
A splendid idea, as I see it, as most probably a number of accidents caused by tiredness will be prevented that way. An example to be followed?



Plain language – with no word at all

The Centro Storico of Rome these days(?) shows a lot of construction areas. There are, however, also some places that in other parts of the world would have been declared dangerous, here being still open for pedestrians. A drain, some 5 inches above level of the rest of the pavement, could be an example. It became a “striking” example for a Roman pedestrian, some 50 years of age and visibly bad- tempered that day, walking down his way absentmindedly and thus not being aware in time of the obstacle. He bumped into the cement, flung around - but did not “go down”. Then, however, he turned round his view and his body in a spiral only the Italians can perform, threw up his arms in a great gesture which allowed him to give way to all his anger without saying a single word. The English “translation” of his gesture into plain language would undoubtedly have been: “There you’re hanging around in your dull city planning offices, you …… ....holes, while I have to risk life and limb on the pavements you don’t repair”.



At least a clear-cut decision.....

For more than a month now the inhabitants of a part of a small town do no get letters, parcels or any kind of mail. The postman in charge refuses categorically to deliver mail unless a dog would be taken “out of the way” he defines dangerous. Had this dog, as in most cases, a specific master the problem would most probably be solved in short time, the “pressure” from all others waiting for their mail would have its impact. In our case, however, this dog is perceived to be owned by all inhabitants of the part of town, the people declare to have brought him up altogether – and that the dog was absolutely harmless. This assertion, on the other side, does not convince the postman.
So we might have to wait for the outcome: will this part of town do without mail or without dog – in the end we cannot exclude the Italian postal services will find a solution, although they are not renowned for “finding solutions”……..

Let me remind you: In Italy most bills are sent by mail, honi soit qui mal y pense!



How to add to your poor pension: dig your own grave

One of these days a man of 74 years of age was arrested in Rome. A man who, like many others, has been selling junk at the Roman flea-market Porta Portese. Better “informed” clients, however, were shown his treasures: truly antique pieces the most experienced man had plundered from graves and tombs in the area and thereafter restored himself most skilfully. He was arrested when on his way to one of his clients. The police found several bags full of antique pieces in the car. The investigation that followed in his domicile summed up 8.972 antique objects, all of which of Etruscan or Early Roman period origin: statuettes, vases, bowls and other, all of which of highest value – and, of course, public ownership, under a preservation, selling and export severely prohibited. Beyond that the officers found an extremely well equipped workshop for restorations of all kinds.
The news did not address the question since when and with which overall profit he had raised his pension that way. Interesting, as a bottom line, that a clever grave plunderer could find items in that number and quality still today, where everybody has been thinking all “had gone” by now.




The Trevi Fountain – a way to add to your budget

For many years kids were allowed to collect the coins from the Trevi Fountain which tourists had thrown in(“backwards”, of course) hoping for a soon return to the Eternal City. When the commune’s budgets became somewhat tense this was brought to an end and city employees were tasked to do the “fishing”, the money has always been given to beneficial organisations.
One of these days four of them were arrested as they tried to keep the coins for themselves. And, believe or not, the amount of money found with them was almost 1.200 EURO. Not a bad additional income as this was just the “fishing” of one night...



Another way of mourning...

The people from Genova are said to be misers. The wife of Signor Tirchio from Genova passed away. The day after he went to the local news-agency in order to have an announcement made telling the employee he didn’t want to spend too much money.
So his order for the announcement was “MARTHA DIED”. The employee looked at him rather puzzled as something like that had never ever happened to him in more than 30 years of activity in that field. So he suggested to be somewhat more explicit and indicated that the price for the announcement would not change if it did not exceed 7 words. So the man from Genova leant back, reflected for a moment and then gave his new order for the announcement: MARTHA DIED, RED FIAT PANDA FOR SALE.



Organized traffic jam

One of these days Piazza Venezia in Rome – certainly the square with the heaviest traffic in the city, in this regard comparable to the Etoile in Paris – has seen an outstanding example of traffic regulation “the Roman way”. For reasons unknown one of this place’s 7 exit roads has been closed, nicely timed for the daily rush hour.
Who, as has happened to me, ended in this inferno did not have the slightest chance to escape even knowing a bit about driving in Rome. Police all over the place who limited their action to shaking their heads or just look away. Who thought he might be able to sneak out at the next exit now found this road closed as well, finest “management by surprise”. Together with me some other 200 cars and certainly not less than 20 buses were circling the Piazza again and again. The bus passengers at least had a chance to give up and leave the bus during that kind of stop and go. I myself spent more than an hour before I finally managed to find an escape route.
Lessons learned: Never drive with your fuel level low in the city centre.
Nevertheless, almost everybody reacted in a somewhat fatalistic manner if one leaves apart the usual verbal fights and the ongoing cacophony of a few hundred car horns. And, by the way: I have not seen one case of car damage caused in that chaos. Moreover, once back home each and everyone had his story to tell complaining about the unbearable Rome traffic situation getting worse every day – but going back to the city centre by car next day.
“Ma quanto ti odio mia bellissima Roma”, “I truly hate you, my beloved Rome”.



Childrens’ plain language...

In the truly hot summer nights Italian restaurants have come up with a new idea how to cool down the air and offer their guests additional comfort. In intervals they spray cooled steam that slowly spreads all over and clearly lowers the temperature. Those who do not know what is happening are somewhat puzzled with the unexpected cold shower.

Comment of a toddler, perhaps 5 years of age, at the neighbouring table: “This must be an ice bears fart!”

02.09.05

The new dog - or: good preparation is useful...

A dog from the neighbourhood has started to regularly deliver her new puppies at our Italian golf club. Very cleverly she disperses the little ones one after the other in different places, disappears with the rest, leaves the next one at another green – and in the end walks home free of any burden and responsibility. As one can imagine it is getting more and more difficult to find a “master” for the little ones, even the most animal loving golfers have their limits...
From the most recent litter – 6 this time – there were three left these days, nicely accommodated in a little enclosure the club had prepared. The other ones had already found a home . Now today a golfer family had decided to take home one of them. Four from the family plus 3 of their friends were standing outside the enclosure, making their comments about the candidates, discussing pros and cons of male or female. In the end a decision was taken: it should be the little brown one.
Now, however, things became somewhat difficult. Despite all efforts they were unable to get the little brownie out of the enclosure lifting her over the narrow fence. The “mess” created of course made the puppies nervous and they started to escape and hide. After two of the dog catchers had almost fallen into the enclosure one of them took heart and climbed the fence. The little dogs, curious and vivacious before, now tried to escape confronted with that new “threat”, a real chase went off. No doubt, in the end the little brown could not have a true chance against 7 adult people. The puppet was caught, handed over the fence and one of the ladies gently took her on her arms. Result: she got pretty wet in a second, was somewhat frightened, lost hold of the dog, the pursuit started all over, the golfers showing some good sport. Now the golfers searched the collar, brought along with the well known intention but unfortunately left in the car. The dog, empty by now, trembled from fear but kept quiet. The collar was brought and put on, the dog of course not being really happy and fighting the collar unknown to her. In fact, she had good chances as the collar would have fit a full size Rottweiler, but not a tiny little mongrel of perhaps 5 weeks of age. An attempt to put the dog into a shopping bag failed dramatically. New decision: the dog back in the arms of another lady now, not knowing the puppet was ready again to “deliver” by now, another set of cloths soaked.
After that they all got to the car and left. By now the dog might own the most beautiful dog’s basket in Italy and start feeling home and safe. The car most probably will need a thorough inside cleaning...
Anyway: Well done! Let’s hope the other two puppies will find a home as well – the players of today’s safari will certainly be ready to offer their best advice how to get hold of the dogs and transport them back home. Moreover, they will also be able to give good advice where to find a good dry cleaner…



These terrible young people......

But, as one can see, they have their nice sides as well.
One of these days I was driving in direction of the city centre, but still far out in the suburbs. I was overtaken by one of these truly annoying motorcycles, further up front a bus at a bus stop, ready to continue its route. We both saw an elderly woman who desperately was trying to reach this bus – I had the impression she was about to collapse any moment.
The young man on the motorcycle signalled the bus driver there was still a passenger underway who obviously needed to fetch this bus. The driver was not at all impressed and tried to pull out on the road. This, however, did not work as the young man placed himself with his motorbike just in front of the bus, neglected the driver’s outbursts – and thus the old lady managed to get on the bus. With the broadest of smile the young man cleared the way for the bus, showed the bus driver the internationally known middle finger and off he went.

One good action every day!


Things are different in Sicily...

With friends we visited the most Southern part of Sicily, most Southern part of Europe as well and even more South than Tunis. As we had to state one more time, things are different down there and people follow other ways of thinking and behaving.
In a very little town we were looking for a nice restaurant, couldn’t find one and finally addressed a group of 4 policemen who were standing around somewhat bored. They immediately named us a restaurant, had us follow them to the place, held free a parking lot, and started waving and shouting when we continued our search as the place did not seem to be what we had in mind. So we made another turn round the town and, once back to the restaurant, were “channelled” into the parking with some authority – no way to escape this time. The police had asked the owner to welcome us and the rather dull looking place turned out to be a truly beautiful restaurant with fine tables at the beach and exquisite food.
When paying the bill at the end I was asked by the owner whether I would mind to pay also the coffees for the four policemen “as it is the habit in Southern Sicily”. Of course I did so, with some smiling in my face and theirs– not the least for the reason a blunt refusal might have lead to serious consequences …


Help! I do not want to be saved...

A few weeks ago a “clandestino” (illegal immigrant) saved a young girl from drowning in the Tiber river, she obviously had the intention to commit suicide. Not only did the media make him a hero, he also got official papers to stay in Italy, a home and a job.
Others seem to have learned the lesson. Two elder gentlemen who traditionally have been taking a bath in the Tiber river every year, naked by the way, found themselves surrounded by potential “savers” who left them with the alternative to either accept to be “saved” or they would steal their cloths. They actually had to accept to be saved, and will now have their annual Tiber bath in an official Rome river installation, probably not naked.
As people in Rome tend to be particularly inventive one can start from the assumption that in the near future money will be offered for specifically spectacular acts of “life savings”. Just another way of circumvention of Visa rules…


Quo vadis Europe

Now also the Netherlands have voted against the EU constitution, certainly not a surprise after what has happened in France, although the internal reasons might have been different ones.
The question is now: Quo vadis Europe? Just carry on and hope for more than 20 countries having voted positively end of 2006? Take a deep breath and get to it ? Search a new point of departure? Save what can be saved, or run for your lives?
What seems to be a fact right now is: This (!) EU constitution does not carry weight. Politicians in at least two EU countries have failed to make this constitution plausible and acceptable. What is missing are visions, convincing strategies and political “leaders” capable of transporting the basically good content in a credible way to their voters. The UK might in fact come to the point not to put a referendum on the agenda –why get burnt without a need to do so? It cannot be excluded other EU countries take the same approach. The possibility to have less than 20 agreeing countries end of 2006 is getting shape. The intention of EU institutions to carry on with the process of ratification regardless of what has happened shows a clear lack of orientation and gives evidence to the fact they either have lost contact with the people or just don’t care.
For “Euro-sceptics” a total confirmation, for convinced Europeans (like me) a more than painful setback. Could it have been avoided? Yes, as I see it. Better prepared, defined more diligently and better to understand for the broad public this situation of impasse could have been avoided. It becomes more and more obvious that the “quick and alert” politician has lost contact with the people concerned, has lost contact with realities and what could be realised. EU-Brussels is perceived rather as a danger than a benefit and chance for the future. Poor management, bureaucracy and administration, short-sighted desire for action with tactical objectives (to be re-elected?) instead of strategic approaches – justified or not, that’s what vox populi is spelling out . Even a strategically valid and indispensable approach like a further integration within EU beyond the common currency of the EURO cannot survive with further blows of the kind of the Paris and The Hague referenda. There is an increasing danger EU loses its “win-win image” and will be looked at as a “lose-lose approach”. This might have the effect a great and undoubtedly valid objective would get out of sight or at least be questioned in a dangerous way.
What could be done? France for some time will suffer a reduced credibility as the “motor” within EU. Something alike might be the case for Berlin (despite the positive vote in the Bundestag) who have been following France as a kind of junior partner over the last years; this might change in case Germany would have a new government this year that could approach the question without any kind of prejudice and transmit its own identification credibly, something I strongly believe. Is this now the hour of those who do not necessarily belong to the “Big Three” in EU? Italy for example? Could they find new impulses, valid new initiatives ? I certainly would not exclude this option, and in the end: what counts is success for Europe, the “paternity” for a promising evolution of the European vision might be flattering but is certainly not the overriding factor.
And the USA? They will look at the situation with mixed feelings. One side might gloat and say: we knew it, much noise, but where is the beef! With some kind of satisfaction they will recognise the first step that puts EU success in question was made by no one less than France; the decision to install de Villepain as the new French Prime Minister will undoubtedly remind many Americans of his very outspoken position in context of the Irak war, leading to some (justified?) scepticism on the other side of the big pond. Those Americans, however, who look beyond to-morrow must perceive the situation with regret as only a truly united Europe would constitute the partner the US urgently will need with a view to worldwide competition of any kind in the future.


Vivent les francais – a good day for Europe

It might sound strange and paradoxical at first sight: the decision of the majority of French voters against the existing EU constitution could be – looked at in longer terms - a good day for Europe. It should make those who strive for a truly united Europe, without being subject to the pressure of quick success like most politicians are, rather hope than despair. Even more than until today we can expect the Netherlands to vote against the European constitution as well. That means – regardless of first reactions from many politicians - the process will be slowed down noticeably. The European idea, however, is certainly not lost but rather will be given a new chance to be pursued with better perceptiveness and the necessary patience. No doubt today’s decision in France reflects also a kind of internal revenge with the governing class of the country, it would however be wrong to seek the reasons just in problems of French home politics, this would be a kind of “eyewash”.
The existing constitution that was subject of today’s voting has simply been forged together too quickly, the need for quick political success of those who promoted it was not able to take weight. We have a common currency, we have noble and right objectives for more political integration, for a common foreign and security policy, but for the time being the thin common denominator is not sufficient. When capitals talk about common values too many are still using their national views. The fact that is has not been possible to incorporate common Christian values, roots and orientation into the constitution as an integral and indispensable part of European culture is one striking evidence to everybody. Of course the European train needs engines – they should however take into account the wagons and the fact that some of these wagons are carrying ever less passengers by now…..
In the United Kingdom people will gloat, Italian newspapers have been writing for days a negative outcome of the French referendum would really not be such bad a thing, they rather saw positive perspectives should this happen. In the new EU member countries people will recall the times when some of them took a positive position with the US just before the outbreak of the Irak war and Chirac commented they “had lost a good opportunity to be quiet” (actually the comment has been somewhat stronger).
One of the promoters of the constitution, better: this constitution, has a piston seizure. It is not up to me to speculate on the possible internal quarrels France might face as a consequence. Remains to hope, however, Paris will start to reflect on the question whether Europe really has to follow French ways of thinking or would be given a chance to develop as a true community on equal footing of all members and at a digestible speed. The axis Paris-Berlin with its disturbing situation in the years of Berlin following “almost to heels” has run into overheat, missing the strategic perspectives and – to remain in the picture – the lubricating oil of the times of Mitterand/Kohl. There cannot be any doubt: the good Franco-German relation is a truly great and historical achievement and one of the cornerstones for any European development; the assumption, however, this would be the exclusive driving factor for developing Europe able to push through everything fails to reckon with the other Europeans – and as we have seen with the French voters, too. It is one thing to “eat à la carte” in NATO and EU, it is another thing to try and decide the menu as well.
Christian occident has taken centuries to develop. Why shouldn’t we allow the Europe of the future the time it needs to develop on a truly strong and reliable basis. Perhaps some should just lean back and apply also for a united Europe the maxim of “liberté, fraternité, égalité”.


Rare experience......

The Tuscans are said to be clever in “handling money”. They themselves would never say they are greedy; greedy are the people in Genova, we just “care for our money”.

A few days ago I had a cappuccino in a bar in Lucca and thus became witness of the following story: An elderly Italian came into the bar, bought 3 packs of cigarettes, paid 10 EURO, got one back, took his cigarettes and left. A minute later he was back, showed the cigarettes and said: “I’ve bought and paid three packs, Signora, you instead gave me four”. The owner’s face showed complete perplexity: “I have been running this bar for 3 decades now, but something like that has never ever happened to me. You know what: Keep the extra pack as a gift!”
Both of them probably had a good day and enjoyed “good feelings”. And another elderly guest of the bar, one of those who spend whole days there with one glass of white wine, was mumbling: “Here we have it again: we certainly are not like “them” up there in Genova”

On a bus in Rome...

One of these days I was travelling on a regular Roman bus as I had something to do in one of the suburbs. Normal working day situation, the bus well packed. Just in front of me there were two elderly Roman ladies, perhaps I should say: women. Everything was fine and just as normal as it could be when all of a sudden a young man, rather talking to himself, mumbled: “O God, now I don’t even know where to get off the bus and find my connection”........
That, of course, was just the “ignition” for the two “turtles” who simultaneously and non stop started talking to the poor guy. Countless suggestions, most of them discussed controversially, noise level raising and speaking speed getting out of control – the suggestions would easily have done for a trip to Tokio and back. In the end, of course nobody had an idea which would have been the best connections with another bus, certainly not the poor young man who by this time had accepted his fate without any further resistance. With a very gentle “Thank you, ladies”(his one and only contribution to the whole discussion) he left the bus; I had the impression he was more than happy he had escaped alive from the turtles’ eagerness to help.
He had hardly left the bus when I heard one of the ladies address the other saying: “Isn’t that just incredible with these young people of today? I actually just wanted to ride quietly and undisturbed on my bus, and then this.........“



Somewhere between readiness to help and precision...

That’s exactly the area where the typical Italian (should he still exist) spends his life, certainly so if you go further South this country.
In the North you should start from the assumption that, when asking for a specific address, you will either get an absolutely correct answer, otherwise people would rather bluntly tell you they don’t know – which in plane language means “actually I don’t mind, try and find out yourself”.......
This would never ever happen in Rome. No Roman would ever admit he does not know this street and the easiest way to get there. The typical Roman, the “Romano Romano” (should there still be any of them) would describe to you in the most colourful way where you would be able to get the best cappuccino underway, which jewels of Roman history you should not miss seeing going there. It might, of course, be the case that he does not have the slightest idea of where the street in question would be. In factual terms he would remain absolutely imprecise – this, however (as I’ve heard it defined so nicely one of these days) in the most charming way one could imagine. In the end it might happen that his winning and all embracing explanation becomes more important for you than looking for that street at all.......


One more time: No Smoking Law

As I have reported several times, the issue of No Smoking continues to have its impact on every day’s life in Italy. Now in a way that is imaginative but certainly has not been in the minds of those who “invented” the new regulations.
Some specifically cunning (?) people have found a new way to draw their own profit from the new situation: There are more and more complaints from owners of restaurants (who strictly follow the law) about guests that abuse the new circumstances: They enjoy a particularly full and costly meal, after main course order a specifically expensive desert with well selected brandy or any other high quality “digestivo”, excuse themselves for a “quick smoke outside while waiting” (the owner nodding in appreciation of their correctness) – and are gone for ever.......
As one can see, the many times quoted Mediterranean imaginativeness is not an exclusive gift for the decent ones.


Latin Lover – or better not?

At my golf club today’s discussions have been dominated by one issue. An obviously serious Italian Journal had edited the results of a study where they had looked at let us say “sexual energy” on one side and general intellectual capabilities on the other.
The first part of the study dealt with “sexual interest and capabilities” and here the Italians felt very pleased, some just “naturally reassured” as they had been given a leading position in comparison with other European countries. The golf club discussions, however, became very heated as the second part of the study came to the result the price to be paid for being “strong” would lie in less overall intellectual capacities.
Let us just neglect the disputable scientific value of the study: I was unable, even with good old companions and friends, to find out on what side they would prefer to see themselves in the context of the study as they too are going ahead with the motto “eat the dough but have the cake anyway”.

Genius – or perhaps something else…

Several times I have already been talking about a phenomenon I used to call the Italian (or should we say “ Mediterranean”?) imaginativeness. Now here we have another case, specific in character, as reported by the “Corriere della Sera”:
At a ceramics factory in Cerveteri, in “joint venture” with others in Canino and Brescia, the Fiamme Gialle (the Italian customs and finance agency) have discovered a somewhat special case of fraud. In close cooperation the three factories hade manufactured an attic vase, a so called Kylix; exposing it to X-rays using hospital equipment – they have achieved a kind of “aging process” with the result that, having gone through various panels of experts on different levels, it was attributed to the 6 th century B.C. It seemed to be truly special an object as it was autographed by one of the two best known ceramic producer of the time, only two other vases of the kind existing today, one in the Louvre, the other one in Villa Giulia in Rome. In the end the vase had been given positive expertise also by the British Museum in London, and the respective market had already started “chasing” the magnificent specimen, from Switzerland to Japan and the Emirates. Now, once the Fiamme Gialle had discovered the attempted fraud, detailed checks of the basic material showed an almost complete lack of chrome and nickel an authentic attic vase would have contained.
It goes without saying that numerous other fakes were found “in the process of development” and that the entire gang was arrested.
Hadn’t the Fiamme Gialle been so clever and lucky, the vase might be the show-piece of a renowned museum somewhere on this globe now – or might have ended in the strong box of a rich individual (and, let us assume it would have gone this way: would this person ever admit he/she had fallen victim to a case of fraud and the crown jewel of his/her collection was a fake?)
Most certainly material for another detective novel of the well-known genre…….

Homeless people, another story…

Some time ago I reported on a homeless man in Rome whose problem to get through the winter was solved during a radio transmission in a fast and much humanitarian way. Now I have to report another story, certainly less pleasant as it started, but in the end giving evidence one more time for the kind of readiness to help each other in Rome.
A homeless person – the Italians call them “barbone” – prepares his night quarters in the entry of a downtown Rome church. He either did not know this was the favourite place of one of his “colleagues” or simply neglected the fact –first come first serve.
His rival, hopping mad, waited until the “intruder” had fallen asleep, and then most brutally set him on fire. Wrapped in all his belongings, blankets and old boxes, the victim is unable to free himself in time and thus is completely ablaze. So far the nasty part of the story.
In this situation, must have been in the early morning hours, some youngsters pass with their car, they see the poor guy in flames, stop their car, try to extinguish the flames – and in the end succeed in doing so, helped by someone else’s fire extinguisher.
So the ”barbone” has been quite lucky in the circumstances due to the readiness of the young people (do we not have some prejudices about them once in a while?) to help in a somewhat risky situation. They could easily have just driven by gawping….

No Smoking Law, reality all’Italiana…

The discussion about the the No Smoking Law has found new “dynamite” as reported by the “Corriere della Sera” of today. The newspaper refers to the fact that in the Rome Parliament and in the Senate people continue to smoke, not only in their individual offices and some working groups but rather in parts of the buildings accessible to all politicians and the public as well. One parliamentarian is quoted: “as long as there are ashtrays……..” He probably should not have said it: yesterday all those ashtrays even in Palazzo Madama (some of which really nice antique masterpieces) have been dismantled………
However, don’t think the story will end here; we should not underestimate the Italians’ imaginativeness.

Came in now, happened short before Christmas .....

A lady, non Italian, went for shopping at Rome IKEA just a few days before Christmas: The usual ladies’ full IKEA programme, but unfortunately (though anything but unusual) very much in a hurry. So she walks through all IKEA departments as so nicely “arranged” by this kind of supermarkets, “clients friendly and inviting”…..
When she had done all her shopping she realised with some degree of horror that she had lost her handbag: she either had left it somewhere or had deposited it in someone else’s trolley (see her hurry). In any case, the handbag is gone, and with it all the usual documents like ID card, driver’s license, credit cards etc. And, of course, all the cash she had carried with her. In other words: the worst case possible (I’ve never ever found out what ladies can carry around in what they call a handbag and what for….)
All desperate searching remains without any result, panic level is going up exponentially. What remains in the end is the not all too promising rush to the check-out, maybe one would detect someone who tries to sneak out with the “treasure” under the arm……
But, the miracle happens: while she is speeding to the check-out her full name is announced over loudspeaker, the handbag has been found, plus – and here is the core of the miracle – delivered by another client with all its contents. What follows is the usual administration through all channels, identification (with no ID card in hand), description of what should have been in the handbag, some forms to fill – nevertheless a beautifully pre-Christmas surprise. Typical Italian honesty? Specifically friendly mood in that season? Who knows, perhaps it has been just a nice and gentle mixture of both. In any event: another reassuring experience in this country with its charm and high degree of humanity.

No Smoking Law – first grotesque consequences.....

The new No Smoking Law in Italy, heavily disputed and most certainly cleverly circumvented in many cases, has brought to life first grotesque outcomes: A housewife, obviously somewhat less in love than half a century ago, has reported her husband to the police for smoking in the living room without her consenting, something he will have done for decades. The police came, fined him with the regular 27 EURO (as there were no kids or pregnant ladies around), but was unable to cash the money from him as he did not have one cent in his pocket. Thus, in the end, the wife had to pay for him. In sports we use to say “she shot herself in the foot”.

Hunting smokers…….....
(Get them: dead or alive)

As has been reported a law is being implemented (some say from today onward) that forbids smoking in restaurants, bars etc., unless they have a separate room with its own ventilation system. Not only smokers are in a state of open fury; even more so are the owners of these places who are simply unable to provide the necessary infrastructure. The law foresees they should even denounce those who break the new law; otherwise they themselves would be fined with high sums at stake. Imagine he would have to do so with his oldest friends or guests who have frequented his place for decades, his next door neighbour.
Now, we all know things are not always taken so serious – “tanto fumo, poco arrosto” (much noise for nothing) is an old Italian saying, quite suited for the situation we are facing. Most probably there will soon be a “one-man-smoker’s-helmet” on the market with “exhaust pipe” long enough to reach the next door. In one way or the other these truly genius people will find a way to escape from the imminent threat.
The law the Health minister has imposed has its high ranking opponents even in the Government itself: The Defence minister has accused the law to be completely out of proportion and violating the right of private property (or better: self determination). Rightly so he states smoking should be “fought” through education, not by law and enforcement.
Now one can expect there will be (at least in the beginning) real “raids”, hot (only verbal?) fights and in the end arrests as the smokers are not willing to follow like lambs and simply accept the new law, and the owners of restaurants etc. won’t do either. Most probably some owners of restaurants and bars will declare their places entire and exclusive “smoking area,” quite understandably as for them it is becoming a question of financial survival; they would thus not only circumvent the law, but rather put it “ad absurdum”; I am convinced these places would be overcrowded and even make a good bargain. The remote hope of some owners more non smokers would come to their restaurants now than smokers would be lost seems to be a more than childish illusion in this country.
Up to now things have been dealt with (Health minister apart) in a most liberal way: smokers and non smokers have always found nice and gentle ways and solutions. The almost fundamentalist approach of the Health minister does not match the Italian way of living. It is simply a mistake to try and impose other countries’ regulations against smoking and smokers (some of which close to “inquisition” and witch hunting) in Italy, a country where purism, fanaticism and missionary handling of individuals simply do not fit and will not work, a country that finds its charm in its “laissez faire” and the multifaceted cohabitation of all – a country which is doing extremely well in this way. The number of tourists even from countries where smokers face severe problems and are being looked at as outlaws has not decreased a bit, in Rome’s centro storico or in Trastevere North Americans and Scandinavians have lots of fun amidst the many smoking local people; most obviously they do not feel all too bad or disgusted, otherwise they would not frequent these places, would they?
Let us also keep in mind the poor policeman who has to do the nightly checks in restaurants: not only will he have to face a lot of trouble and angry words, the poor guy will always have to through away his cigarette before entering the place. Will cost him a lot of money. He might wish to check a “smokers only” place once in a while……

Happy New Year.......
 
The Italian Health minister has prepared a nice new year's gift for a high percentage of the Italian population: From 1 January 2005 onwards (by now „postponed“ to the end of the month) smoking will only be allowed in Italian restaurants, cafes etc if they can provide a separate room with its own and independant ventilation. It goes without saying that only a small number of restaurant owners will be in a positon to comply with that new law; which means this will be, through the back door, a decision with major impact.
We will, however, have to see what really will happen. Experience in this country make us assume it is not yet all done, not everything the „superiors“ impose will be put in place as they had wished. Most probably there will some „italian“ solutions and a lengthy transition phase. Like with the „No Smoking“ signs at the Roman airports which, cleverly enough, have been attached to the many ashtrays in the lounges. Or like when the law was established to put on safety belts in cars: The day the law was put in vigor T-shirts appeared on the market (they say it happened in Naples) with a black diagonal stripe printed on the front; they were sold out in short time......Tourists and some purist from Northern Italy put on safety belts today, the rest continues to neglect the obligation. Police and Carabinieri forces included, unless a superior officer is on bord the car. By the way: if you are „caught“ without belt it will cost you some 62 EURO, at least in Puglia, haven't made experiences of my own in other Italian regions yet.........

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